As far as my wife knows, I fixed the problem for the price of a bottle of coolant, so I am a hero. I also didn't see any way to remove the heater core box without removing the lateral dashboard support tube which runs from left to right across the entire dash. I bled the cooling system last night. I get super hot air from the driver side vents, and cold air from the passenger vents. It could be blower motor resistor or blower motor amplifier.
Super excited to drive off with my new purchase and a great overall experience. This view is looking forward from the center console area. I recently rebuilt the transmission and replaced the radiator and wondering if the two are related repairs. A few weeks ago it started showing the telltale signs of a leaking heater core. It is located on the right side of the fire wall in the engine compartment sitting in the car the right side standing facing the car left side of the fire wall. An overall great person and salesman.
The heater was blowing cold air while idling and hot air when the car was moving. There's a post on it here in the Nicoclub forums. The only special tool I required was a T50 Torx security bit - to detach the passenger side airbag mounting bolts. Start the engine and wait for the vehicle to warm up to normal operating temperature. When driving, the temps are erratic at best. Any thoughts on where I can look to find the step-by-step process of replacing the heater core? Anyway, this did not immediately solve the problem, still blowing cold air as it sat there idling after 15 minutes. This is supposed to release any air bubbles in the coolant system and I did see air bubbles emerge as I was watching this might be normal occurance, I'm far from a mechanical expert.
One is just in front of the firewall, top dead center, a rubber cap. Now that winter is approaching, I need to actually fix the problem. Parked on an incline, removed radiator cap, started truck with heater on high and highest temp, let run for 20 minutes, and topped off radiator as air came out. After some searching, I haven't been able to find anything anywhere on this. It can get through unexpected wea. Wait a bit and see what somebody here comes up with. Mileage right now is at 198,000.
I tryed to fill just the coolent resivoir and that dident work so i filled the radiator pumb full and that worked!! He had them patch it out of the system. I see dash removal - which is part of the job. . The heater core itself is far forward in that box. But I think I solved the front heat problem myself.
Park the vehicle on level ground, when cold remove coolant filler cap, start engine and leave to idle, turn heater on full and blower to max. Also replacing the crankcase ventilation hoses between the left and right valve covers and both lines going to the intake manifold as they feel almost rock-hard. This is supposed to release any air bubbles in the coolant system and I did see air bubbles emerge as I was watching this might be normal occurance, I'm far from a mechanical expert. There is not a lot in the way of frills here, but there is plenty of strength and reliability to go around. He damn near got frostbite. It can be reset through the use of the ignition key switch. How much can this cost me to repair and should I be weary of any other plastic parts that will soon need replacing mileage right now at 109k, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Top up with very warm coolant and wait as it may do it again. Don't plan any Tahoe trips. Could you please point out where that is? Turn on the car heater to the hottest, then purge out the coolant from the engine, run the garden hose through till clear. My question is, what is this actually called what is it's exact purpose? It has a very attractive body, the interior is surprisingly roomy and convenient ignoring the third row , it has a good deal of power for a 4. Reassembly took another 2 hours. I disassembled some of the dash today.
It appears we have an Air lock scenario and you will need to perform a system Bleed. Some things that may be at fault are, a defective heater pump, which will lead to an air lock in the system, or a defective blend air door motor in the heater and cooling unit assembly. My rear heater has not worked the last 2 winters, still trying to figure that one out. It took about 2 hours to disassemble the dash to this point. And watch the coolant color come out the other side? And if you top up the rad, there are one and maybe two vents you need to open while topping up. If it does work but only on one speed, then the resistor block is shot and needs replacing. Would blowing compressed air in the heater hose lines clear any blockage? But a funny thing happened the next day, the coolant level was a lower no leaks on the floor so I filled up, and sure enough, when I started the car and let it warm up a little, hot air started coming out of the heater!!! If the fan will not blow, then the fan assembly may need to be replaced.
Hopefully the correct parts will arrive invoice below. My heater core started leaking several months ago, so during the summer I plugged both the inlet and outlet. Come check him out I assure you you won't regret it! Dejected, I put the cap back on, lowered the vehicle and resigned myself to taking it to a dealer. However, you may not need to remove the dash. K Posted on Feb 24, 2009 Does the fan work at all? On the other hand, my dad told a story about a car that didn't have a heater in a midwest winter in the early 1940s. The plastic portion is definitely the Achilles' Heel here. Hope this works for you, and I hope I can figure out my rear heater problem as well.
Its behind the glove box screwed to the air box assembly. When the truck is idling, I only get cold air blowing out of the vents. I read on some Honda forums of using compressed air, they said disconnect both hoses, blow air into one and point other hose to a bucket, keep filling it up with distilled water and blowing it out into the bucket. Would just a spray nozzle from an air compressor do this or would it have to be sealed to the one hose it was blowing into?? Anyway, this did not immediately solve the problem, still blowing cold air as it sat there idling after 15 minutes. If the fan is not blowing warm air or is blowing warm air but you suspect that it should be warmer, then the heater coil assembly may have failed or is failing. If there are instructions on replacing the heater core in there, then I must be blind.