. Connect another short hose between the pump outlet and one of the cooler lines, then connect a hose from the other cooler line, placing the other end of the hose in the bucket see illustration. This is where a step-by-step approach to the problem can help get you steered in the right direction. To test the cooler, securely plug the end of one of the cooler lines, then apply compressed air at about 30 psi to the other line. The converter is a judgment call, relative to the prior questions. Any bubbles at all are an indication there is a leak and the cooler will need to be repaired or replaced.
This will ensure that all solvent has been purged from the cooler. Make notes on the number of plates, the installed direction and location of backing plates, apply plates, waved plates, etc. Then disconnect the pump and blow compressed air through the cooler line until no more solvent comes out the other line. Donnie I'm not sure where to tell you to order from. Do I need to replace the H serve cover? This setup provides a good solid shift that is suitable for towing applications, as well as competition quality shifts for drag racing. Does anyone have any more advise as to what I should replace? A new heavy duty boost valve is included with this shift kit.
I will probably come back to folks out there with more questions in due course - but if anyone can help answer on the above points it sure would be appreciated! Will revert with more detail tomorrow hopefully. These pro super kits include gaskets, seal kit, new performance clutches and steels, bands, adjustable modulator and a high volume filter, drain plug kit and a Trans-Scat Valve Body Kit. The best way to flush the cooler is with a special tank-type flushing machine. The correct components for your transaxle should be in the overhaul kit, if you purchased the correct kit. If anyone has any thoughts Donnie in particular I would be very grateful.
Differences may exist between your model and the model shown. Run the pump until the solvent coming out of the return line comes out clean. I could elaborate, but a good manual will detail more than I can type. Applications: - 1969-1979 F-100s - 1975-1979 F-150s - 1968-1979 F-250s - 1968-1979 F-350s Because the Ford F-100 has been out of production for 30 years and replacement parts are hard to come by, it would behoove you to give it a second look sooner rather than later. Lots of parts to gather together - it all takes time.
If you get a thrust washer complete kit, you will get the selectables that you will need for your final end play. You can be methodical and cover all the bases during a rebuild and still things can go wrong. Can anyone advise where I might be able to obtain a copy please? Also unbolt and remove the transfer case-to-engine support strut s. What should I look for as the cause of the reverse chatter please? Continue to apply pressure for ten minutes or so which you watch the radiator opening. I just looked at Trans Parts On Line, there is a pretty good list of parts that you can buy, without buying a lot of parts that you will not need.
The piston seals must be installed with the seal lip facing the correct direction. Donnie Hello Donnie, Sorry for my absence, I was away in Wales over the weekend enjoying some rare summery weather here. I would suggest taking it apart using your reference material, what ever you choose. On models where a rubber boot covers the lower shift lever, move the boot out of the way and unbolt the lever from the case. Use a block of wood under the oil pan to spread the load.
Because automatic transmissions encompass dozens of tiny parts—clips, balls, pins, valves, springs, and other items—your workspace must be well-lit, neat, orderly. The Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul and Repair Manual by Haynes, is the perfect tool for the do-it-yourself weekend mechanic, but also includes professional tips and tricks that even the most experienced mechanic can benefit from. Before removing a piston seal, note the installed direction of the seal lip. While I want to get big bertha back on the road asap, I want to get this right. The best at-home method we found is to use an electric drill-powered fluid pump. This kit offers options for shift firmness. I haven't yet found a source for the 3 pinion planets.
The shift kit also addresses passing gear spin up, soft 1-2 shifts, soft 2-3 shifts and clutch chatter. It just softens the apply. It addresses the premature clutch and band failure, increases line and lube pressure. I need a drill mounted pump to flush out transmission coolant radiator but have paint filters to be able to re-use the solvent. If you can order a small tub of trans jel it will aid you in keeping thrust washer in place. This is the one that returns the piston. I haven't removed the low-reverse clutch discs yet, these will be replaced anyway but I am interested to see if they are as worn as those in the forward clutch assembly.
How do I know what the correct clearance should be? The 90-degree Fairlane small-block V-8s followed in 1962. Product Description Transmission Rebuild Kit for 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978 and 1979 F-100s, F-150s, F-250s and F-350s with a C6 Automatic Transmission. Refer to Chapter 2 for additional information. If unsure, a common rule-of-thumb is this: the seal lips always faces pressure. Adrian, yes it it a foreward clutch failure. That said, this job would have been easier if the whole truck had been jacked up or use of a pit under the truck to allow standing - whether we will get the thing back in or not remains to be seen! In your thrust washer kit you will have a selectable washer or 2 that will give you the correct end play.