Reverse sometimes works but it struggles and needs a lot of throttle to get the truck moving. The bonded gaskets should eliminate the blow out problem. It is similar in design to the 4R44E except that it has an increased maximum torque capacity of 550 lbs. All that is left is to remove some parts for some reason which ford did not specify. The coil housing and valve will be removed, and a plug or epoxy used to seal the inboard circuit see Figure 3. It would be wise to take the vehicle to reputable transmission shop for diagnosis.
I'm still hoping that someone has other ideas about what I can or should do first. Anybody please give me your thoughts!!! All forward gears work great. Reverse servo O rings, 2. Then after you get the pan off you can set it aside and pull the filter, again you will get a nice shower of fluid. Yup will definitely do this! Ensure the vehicle has line rise, as reverse will not engage until line is 120 psi. In 1997 the unit became a 5-speed by applying the front servo to obtain an overdriven first and 5th.
I actually took movies of the gauge if anyone is interested-I haven't edited it for the good parts yet though. It only happened on shifts and starting out. Shift from 2nd to drive with overdrive locked out and it drives like a dream never slips. The transfercase has nothing to do with a no reverse only problem. When I put the trans shifter in reverse it sounds as though it has engaged but I have no reverse. Note the orientation of the spring lever.
No reverse update A month ago I had a bang, then no reverse. Possibly adding an inline filter and more flush. How you should be ready to pull the valve body down. But if people here tell me it's the band, for sure, then I'll start looking for a real mechanic instead. As miles piled up, problem got worse. You need to make sure to get this back on when reinstalling the valve body. Any chance of loosing forward as well?? The mechanic, who i was referred to by 3 of my fellow co-workers who just had their trannys redone by him, told me he rebuilt it with better gears, and such.
Buying a used trans seems too much of a gamble considering the labor costs of take off the original one and put the used one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is critical because there are something of 6 different length bolts. I have manual 1st gear, but there's a slight shudder when it starts to move. I was real careful in keeping everything organized during disassembly, assembly and when I found the broken band I figured I had it made. If this problem is already up somewhere let me know. Found the source to be the Fwd.
Now you must remove a couple of bolts on the side of the trans that hold the manual detent lever spring. The servo is the hydraulic apply mechanism and can be replaced in the vehicle. The shift solenoids are the components that engage the shift points and gears, if they go out they can cause the transmission to experience shifting problems. You can duplicate hot fluid at the bench by filling the case and valve body with solvent, then bolt up and test with the adapter. Not sure if engine braking is out in 1st, but it might be.
Then torque the bolts to 80 inch lbs and then to 115 inch pounds. No burned smell or fragments of any kind in pan. You should be able to get it home although you may have to baby it and worst case scenirio leave it in 1-2 grear. Pull the valvebody and look at the band. When I inspected mine a few weeks ago, the magnet was caked over with about 4x its own thickness in nothing but burnt friction material. With the parts and instructions, you can replace the servos in two to four hours depending on what tools and equipment you have available. Make very sure that you are keeping all parts clean and installing clean bolts.
Whether you need 5R55E wiring diagram information, 5R55E transmission rebuilders tips, 5R55E technical information, 5R55E diagnostics, 5R55E troubleshooting help, or just answers to your 5R55E transmission rebuilders question, the is the place to go! So, the fix; a new center support hub, and machining back the rolled-over bore end, so that it was no longer in direct metal-to-metal contact. I would recommend doing this so you don't get it messed up with the others later. If so just sit it off to the side where it will stay clean. Loss of solenoid oil due to end plug leakage can cause no Reverse, and loss or 3rd or 4th and can be repaired with. You may remove these both and lay them off to the side and there should be a place in the template for the bolt. It was as if the truck was in neutral.