There seems to be two different types. I used a ring spanner. By the time that you get it out and replace the seals, might as well have replaced the box. I know bugger all about steering boxes, but have been told if its the top seal normally can get away with a rebuild kit. Its is very very tight. Are recon boxes as good as new boxes? Thanks atriot: I've never seen anyone have success rebuilding their own steering boxes. No guarantees it will work, do it at your own risk etc etc - but it worked for me.
Next carefully fit the blue seal as shown taking care not to damage its lip. Thanks for the help with my first question. I dont think they are a left handed thread Has anyone been able to loosen these okay? It was best just to let someone else rebuild the box. All comments will be gratefully received and much appreciated. To drift the seal in evenly it is necessary in the Defender to remove the shaft between the two unis. This is the same seal from the side that faces the steering box.
It definitely slowed the leak down initially and improved the feel of the steering a little. It's not difficult getting them apart, but without some special tools and some good experience, it's difficult to get the seals seated properly. Tighten and belt the sides of the pitman arm with previously mentioned large hammers to 'flex' the tapered Pitman arm steering output shaft untill it frees. I can hold the car in a straight line easy and cannot detect much play in the steering system. Has anyone tried to replace the seal while the box is still installed on the truck? You may end up spending a day doing yours and end up with a bigger leak than what you started with.
All had '4 bolt' steering boxes. Tamping the seal down with a piece of toothbrush handle ensures no damage and that the seal seats correctly. I've since heard that you're supposed to use steering fluid from Land Rover dealership. The seals have to be warmed up then slid over an expansion cone down to the groove then a reverse cone which compresses it down into the groove. The occasional squirt of brake cleaner around the dust seal area has softened the seal and it stops dripping again.
New seals do not cure the problem. Cheers Andy thanks for the posts guys, the comments received have helped in the fact that I have a different leak problem than most as they appear to be comming from a different area. If you discover during fitting that there is scoring the new seal kit will still last a little while, giving you time to source another box. Disconnect the drag link from the end of the Pitman arm remove split pin, loosen off bolt and belt opposite sides of Pitman arm simultaneously with big hammers will do the job. There's a reason Land Rover doesn't sell the seals separately, and it's not just to make more money.
My steering box has suddenly started leaking. It could be this leaking, or it could be the pipe underneath it which often rubs against the engine bay. Does any one have any helpful hits on this project and am I going to need pullers to open up the box? I mean it doesn't just drip, it sprays out. Sort of enviromentally friendly before it became trendy. They are the input shaft from the steering wheel and the output shaft to the drop arm which connects to the road wheels. If it is from underneath output shaft or from the input shaft on the back, then a complete box replacement certainly makes sense since seal replacement rarely seems to be satisfactory. The seal gets damaged because there is play in the bearings.
That is, is it a ram of some description, does it work on the steering box, etc? I love the Lucas products, but that one is not for external leaks, but internal seal and valve leaks. And the reservoir for the oil also sits on the passenger side. Happy hunting All comments will be gratefully received and much appreciated. Could I drive through it for a couple of weeks or might it suddenly just go? If however, it is leaking from around the top of the cover plate the thing bolted down with the 4 bolts on top then it is relatively simple to replace the O-ring under there for a good reliable fix. Wolf, After so long I would have thought you might have read the label.
It seems a bit pointless to buy a replacement unit if this can be resealed. Any ideas on what is wrong. How can you accurately identify which box you have? Which is pretty much what we started with, except it now doesn't leak. When the independant mechanic removed the pipework assembly, it basically turned to dust. Bottom line, it's not hard to rebuild the box, but it's hard to rebuild it properly.
There are special tools for their installation. Hi all I tried the stop leak but its not made any difference. You can replace the seal and the box will stop leaking. Two people, one with circlip pliers and one with a couple of small screwdrivers is handy here. The whole box needs to be rebuilt - not that it's a huge ordeal. More info on this when they come in.